Lace fabric



Dec. 27,1938. 0. SAUER 2,141,409

LACE FABRIC Filed April 28, 1937 3 Sheets-Sheet l FIGI - INVENTOR;

051mm" Sana BY TORNEYS.

WITNESSES;

Dec. 27, 1938. o. SAUER 2,141,409

LAQE FABRIC Filed April 28, 1937 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Ill-Ill Ill III lfi I -i i1 '6 Osiwar Samar, BY W 51% n v n n u Dec. 27, 1938. o. SAUER 2,141,409

LACE FABRIC Filed April 28, 1937 5 SheetsSheet 3 FIG. J2.

WITNESSES: INVENTOR:

mk a. By Oskar Sana I v WORNEYS.

Patented Dec. 27, 1938 UNITED STATES LACE FABRIC Oskar Sauer. Philadelphia, Pa.

Application April 28,

.5 Claims.

This invention relates in its broader aspects to net or open work fabrics generally, while it has more particular reference to lace, lace curtains,

. nets and the like, and their fabrication by a novel manner of interlacing the warp and weft threads, so as to replace the prevailing costly method of using thousands of bobbins; and, at the same time, enabling weaving of all the various pattern eflects now known in, and common to, the art of lace and lace curtain manufacture.

As is well known, all patterns produced byknitting of any kind are based on the principle of a loop engaging a previously formed one and interlacing of wales by alternatingly knit warp threads or yarns.

The primary object of this invention is a new method of producing fabric of the type indicated, wherein two interlacing weft threads alternate to form a pillar of loops, and wherein the interlac ing weft threads are allocated to one side of the fabric and chain loops are formed on the other side.

Another object is the production of a lace fabric by moving the warp threads laterally and interlacing them at the crossover points by pillars of loops passing through them at right angles with respect to the width of such fabric.

A further object is the production of a lace fabric of the above indicated type including pillars of loops formed by placing the needles in the center of the warpthreads or yarns, and alterhating the interlacing weft thread or yarn from both sides of the fabric. v

A still further feature of this invention is to produce variations of pati ern by moving the different warps, or indepnedent threads or yarns, one or more gaits laterally to create openings or solids, nipping the pillars of loops in predetermined order and thereby producing network or nets. Gimping and relief threads or yarns may also be employed as is well known in the art of lace making. i

Other objects and ancillary advantages of the present invention will be pointed out in the following detailed description thereof, orwill be apparent from such description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, depicting a preferred means for carrying out the fundamentals of said invention.

The present invention, while in part somewhat XXVL-XXX of prior Patent No. 2,073,494, granted to the present applicant on March 9, 1937, wherein interlacings are produced by a chain of loops of a single interlacing weft thread, or a pillar of simulating the disclosure with respect to Figs.

1937, Serial No. 139,355

loops by two weft threads and two needles, but differs therefrom by the use of two interlacing Weft threads alternating from one side of the fabric and a single needle at the other side; or two interlacing weft threads alternating from the opposite sides with a single needle in the center.

In the drawings:

Fig. I is a fragmentary view of a portion of the foundation or ground fabric inaccordance with 1 the basic manner of producing pillars of loops between two adjacent warp threads or yarns, in accordance with the instant invention.

Fig. II is a fragmentary cross-section through a loom suitable to the production of, or illustrating preferred instrumentalities employed in the production of an openwork lace foundation in accordance with the present improvements.

Fig. III is a view similar to Fig. I of a modified form of the lace foundation wherein two warp threads or yarns alternate between the pillars of loops.

Fig. IV illustrates the planes of the various threads or yarns with respect to the needles for production of the fabric shown in the preceding view.

. Fig. V is a fragmentary view of a further form of the improved lace fabric wherein two warp threads or yarns alternate over two gaits in front of the needles and two warp threads or yarns similarly alternate over two gaits in the intermediate gaits in back of the needles for formation of a corrugated, rib weave or flat weave.

Fig. VI is a View illustrating the arrangement of the planes of the various threads or yarns for producing the fabric of Fig. V.

Fig. VII is a view similar to Fig. III, of a lace fabric in which a warp thread is caused to alternate to the opposed sides of the pillar of loops and interlace with the shanks thereof.

Fig. VIII is a thread or yarn arrangement view of the texture shown in the preceding illustration.

Fig. IX is a view similar to Fig. III, but indicating how multiple warp threads may beinterppsed between the pillars of loops to produce a denser fabric.

Fig. X is a thread or yarn arrangement view of the texture shown in the preceding illustration.

Fig. XI is a fragmentary view illustrative of alace or patterned-fabric such as is produced in accordance with this invention.

Fig. XII is a detail view of the solid effect known in the art as fining.

Fig. XIII is a-similar illustration indicative of the effect known as half-fining): and,

are distinguished by like reference characters,

excepting where necessary to otherwise differentiate added items.

Fragmentary portions of the improved lace fabrics producible in accordance with this invention are comprehensively designated I in the several drawings, said fabrics embodying pillars 2 of interconnected loops 3 of interlacing wefts 4, and intervening pillars 5 ol' relatively-spaced single or multiple warps 6.

In producing the improved fabric, use is preferably made of the means conventionally shown in Fig. II, wherein I, 8 respectively designate stationary bars having inclined notchings 9, III, the said bar I serving as the beard-closing ledge for the needles II of the reciprocatory needle-bar I2. Jacquard-controlled bars I3 guide the individual warps 6 from supply; while the front and back combs or point-bars are designated I4, I5, respectively. Suitably mounted with capacity for vertical reciprocation are parallel bars I6, I6 with inclined fingers I I, I1, having eyes I8, I8 for guidance of the interlacing wefts 4, in conformity with known practice.

Referring again to Fig. I, it will be readily understood that as the guide bars I6, I6 are reciprocated, the interlacing wefts 4, 4 will be alternatingly wrapped around the needles II to form! the loops 3, 3'; and as the warps 6 are thrownlaterally back and forth, they will alternatingly engage the interlacing wefts 4, 4, and, under tension, draw out the single warp pillars 2. Obviously the tension applied to the warps controls the width of the pillar of loops 3, 3' intervening any two adjacent warps 6. It is also to be noted that informing the pillars 2, the loops 3 to one side of each warp 6 respectively pass through and interengage a pair of opposing loops 3' extending from the flanking warp 6.

The fabric I of Figs. III and IV comprises a foundation similar to that of Fig. I, with the exception that two warps 6, 6 alternate between the loop pillars 2 and thus form a double warp pillar 5.

In Figs. V and VI, there is shown a further variation in the lace fabric wherein reciprocating needles II are used in the center, and two warps 6, 6 alternate over two gaits in front of them and two warps 6, 6' alternate over two gaits in the intermediate gaits in back of the needles II. The interlacing wefts 4, 4' engage-the needles, one from the extreme front at one motion and the other from the extreme back at the next motion, thus forming a corrugated weave; and, under tension, a rib weave of great elasticity. The tension may also be adjusted to produce a fiat weave as obvious to those conversant with the lace fabric art.

Figs. VII and VIII illustrate a still further modification of this invention, wherein two interlacing wefts 4, 4 on the extreme front of the fabric I alternatingly engage the needle IIat the rear. In front of the needle II a warp 6" is caused to alternate to the opposed sides of the shanks of the loops 3, 3', as shown in the upper center part of Fig. VII; and when under heavy tension the interstices between said loops twist around the warp 6, thus firmly locking the loops 3, 3', as shown in the lower center portion of the same figure. Two warps 6, 6' further in front alternate between two adjacent pillars in such 2.

way that they alternatingly engage one interlacing weft 4 of one pillar at the odd motions as indicated at I9 in Figs. VII and VIII, and alternatingly one interlacing weft 4 of the adjacent pillar at the even motions, as shown at 20. Now, as two interlacing wefts 4 or 4' of one pillar engage the needle I I alternatingly, that is one at odd and the other at even motions, only the warps 6 will engage one interlacing weft 4 of each pillar only and a fabric of pillars of loops tied to the adjacent pillar by the warps will result.

In Figs. IX and X, the fabric I is made the same as in Figs. III and 'IV, with the exception that three warps 6" alternate with the shanks of the loops 3, 3' on each side of the pillar 2, with the elongated shanks of said loops serving as wefts, in a manner obvious from a consideration of Fig. IX, more particularly.

Fig. XI illustrates a fragment of lace fabric I in accordance with this invention and embodying a patterned design 2| Fig. XII shows the solid effect known as fining as in Fig. I; and Fig. XIII the effect known as half-fining. To produce the latter effect, the warps 6 move one gait at the firstodd motion and two gaits with the next odd one, and the adjacent warp 6 starts with two gaits.

In producing the simple diamond net of Fig.

XIV, the warps 6 move over one gait only, nipping both interlacing wefts, except where they tie in with adjacent pillars 2. In the latter case the warps 6 move over two-gaits in the direction of the pillar 2 to be tied in; and all of which will be readily understood by those acquainted with the art.

From the foregoing it will be apparent this invention possesses all the advantages of the known knitting warp methods as well as those of the patterned lace making art, while the effects secured resemble those obtained by conventional twist machine methods.

The novel manner of producing lace fabric hereinbefore disclosed possesses the important advantage of being smoother in solid fabrics by causing the warps 6 to draw out the pillars of loops 3 into a smooth strip by continuously engaging a warp 6, at one side of a pillar 2 of loops 3, with one interlacing weft 4 at alternating motions; and another warp 6, at the other side of the pillar 2, with the other weft 4 at the intervening alternating motions. This action produces a solid fabric when both warps 6 engage, at the other alternate motions, their adjacent pillar of loops 3, tying them together side by side. There is another important advantage by forming such interlacing and drawing out the pillars 2 of loops 3 into a flat strip whereby a lace fabric is obtained that alternates a Wale of weft loops with one of the warps; an effect that can only be obtained by using the double number of points with prevailing methods, consequently a gain in quality is obtained for the same production time. This same advantage may also be realized by arranging the interlacing wefts 4 in front and at the back of the needles II, using the elongated shank of the loops 3 for multiple wefts 4, interlaced at one end by the pillar of loops 3, and at the other by a warp 6 between the adjacent pillars. 2, and with intermediate warps interwoven with the wefts 4 in the manner of a plain weave. A fabric of great density may thus 4 they will thus lock the loops firmly and produce a fabric for dye nets and laundry bags, see Figs. VII and VIII. The novel method of interlacing involved in the present invention also permits the formation of'various fabric, effects and nets by simply controlling the guide bars for the warps 6. A further advantage is that the pillars 2 of loops 3 and the interweaving of warps 6 with the wefts 4 or shanks of said loops in a corrugated form permits more space for the instrumentalities like guide bars, needles and points, etc., than is possible with prevailing means where a side by side alignment is used. Still further, an elastic weave may be produced by varying the tension on the warps 6 that tie the adjacent-pillars of loops 2 once in front and once in back of the needles H, and by pulling a strip or band from the front to the back warps 6, and vice versa. The warp knit method will not permit such effects as gimping, etc., produced by a great number of uide bars.

' Having thus described my invention, I claim:

1. A lace fabric comprising spaced warps, and

intervening pillars of interconnected pairs of wefts forming pillars of loops between said warps,

and said loops respectively extending alternatingly from the warps in opposite directions.

2. A lace fabric comprising laterally moved warps with interlacing pillars of weft loops, the shanks of said loops interlacing the warps alternatingly from both sides of the fabric, whereby a corrugated weave is produced.

3. A lace fabric comprising spaced warps with intervening pillars of interconnected pairs of wefts forming pillars of loops between the warps, said weft loops respectively extending from the warps alternatingly in; opposite directions, and an additional warp tying such loop's together at each side of the pillars.

4. A lace foundation for patterned fabric comprising spaced warps, independent warps, and relief threads, all interlaced by the shanks of pillars of weft loops formed alteratingly.

5. A lace fabric comprising spaced warps, intervening pillars formed of alternatingly-directed weft loops, the shanks whereof interlace said warps with-the .bights held by chain loops, and the shanks of the weft loops being tied-in by warps to the shanks of the loops of an adjacent pillar.

OSKAR SAUER. 

